By Quentin Miller
Ever since I got my first pair of climbing shoes (Evolv, which on the old-school box featured a climber over-hung over water) I have always had a fascination with the idea of climbing near or over water. Awesome views, fresh breeze, and the smell of the ocean–what is not to love? I have also always wanted to combine my love for climbing and surfing into one awesome weekend trip. Why not combine my passions and have the best of both worlds?
I finally got to experience this beautiful pairing only a few hours away from San Diego in the heart of SoCal along the majestic 101 in Malibu, CA!
It started off with a lucky weekend booking at the scenic and historic Leo Carrillo State Parks Campground. It’s a great campground right off the 101 with beach access, bathrooms/showers, fire rings, tables, and a general store that sells everything you might have forgotten or need to restock on. Leo Carrillo is in high demand year-round and costs $45 a night with a $8 online booking fee. To reserve a spot, use reservamerica.com.
*Insider tip: There are lots of trees throughout the campground so definitely bring that hammock!
We arrived Friday night on the later side after battling LA traffic. We got some cooking in, set up camp, took a walk down to the beach, and then retired for the evening with the excitement of what the weekend had in store.
There are numerous breaks up and down the 101. We surfed near Zuma beach and a really cool reef break a few miles north of Leo Carrillo.
There’s a decent amount of options including the well-known Malibu Creek area, but we opted for the beachside splendor of Point Dume. Point Dume features eight different routes—all top rope friendly—ranging from 5.6-5.10b, and 1 boulder problem.
HELPFUL TIPS FOR CLIMBING AT POINT DUME
- Day use parking fee of about $10.
- All the bolts I saw looked good but always use your best judgment and proper gear/technique.
- There is quite an overhang so I would suggest 30-40ft of sling to build your anchor, limit drag, and protect your rope.
- There is quick short trail that lets you hike up onto the point and set up shop. From there the fun begins!
Rocking climbing right along the coast was an extremely rewarding experience. I will definitely be back for another fun filled camp, surf, climb weekend getaway.